The deserted Italian city with culture, unbeatable food – and a beach to boot

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A touch of Emilia-Romagna

This part of Emilia-Romagna is famous for its warm and generous hospitality and, as with the rest of the region, the food is fantastic.

Cappelletti pasta stuffed with cheese is a specialty that is almost always found on Ravenna’s menus, served in broth, with ragù or in other combinations such as the delicious asparagus and ham sauce at Al Rustichello (rustichelloravenna.it).

Osteria dalla Zabariona (osteriadallazabariona.com) is the place for authentic, old-fashioned flavors like roast eel, local beef or fish soup and a good selection of Emilia Romagna wines, while Ca’ de Vèn (cadeven.it) is a real Ravenna institution , popular with residents and visitors alike for its historical interior, typical wines such as Sangiovese and the well-structured white Albana and delicious traditional dishes; For a casual meal, try the ubiquitous piadina flatbread, perhaps with tangy soft squacquerone cheese.

Mercato Coperto (mercatocopertodiravenna.it) in central Ravenna is a beautifully restructured historic food market, a good place to buy or sample cured meats, cheeses and a kaleidoscopic array of other produce including seafood, rare Mora Romagnola breeds.

Although locals tend to head to the coast for a feast of fish, there are a few good sea-themed restaurants in town. Try Il Mare di Felice (ilmaredifelice.com) and for an excellent wine selection and bistro-style menu, there’s BaldoVino (facebook.com/enotecabaldovino), a wine bar with charming interiors and a small courtyard garden.


how to get there

Ravenna is an hour by train from Bologna, where there is the nearest major airport, and buses run between Ravenna train station and the beach, eight kilometers away. The pedestrian zone is easily explored on foot, although most residents cycle and there are bike-sharing schemes; There are enough parking spaces on the outskirts.

Where to sleep

Central Ravenna has some quality bed and breakfast options such as Le Case di San Vitale (lecasedisanvitale.it) opposite the Basilica of San Vitale, M Club and Santa Maria Foris. The Palazzo Bezzi is a solid pick for a hotel with more facilities, including a small gym and spa, and convenient parking.

This article will be updated with the latest information.

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